Forgotten Angels Rescue & Education Center
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Forgotten Angels Rescue & Education Center |
BASIC HORSE CARE Updated 01/2009 This free packet was put together by an assortment of Equestrians. Use information at your own risk. It is to help provide guidance only. This packet is no substitute for the direct services of a Veterinarian. Feeding:
Since horses evolved as grazing heard mammals, try and attempt to follow a regimen that emphasizes these specific characteristics and their inherent behavior. Equines are healthier both mentally and physically, and happier, if not confined in stalls for prolonged periods. Hay, a grass-alfalfa mix, should be fed on the ground as pasture would be grazed. Grain should be fed either on the ground in a rubber or plastic feed bowl or in the stall in a plastic corner feed tub shoulder height or lower. Grains should only be used to supplement what your pasture and hay are not adequate in and should not be used as a replacement for pasture or hay. Free range trace mineral and salt should always be provided along with fresh clean water, your horse should always have open access to these at all times. The dietary needs of horses vary according to several factors: metabolic rate, size, age, breed, temperament, activity level, environmental conditions, health and stress level. Use your experience and guidance from your equine practitioner to adjust your horse's diet for optimal health. Basically, horse diet can be divided into six major categories: Water Make fresh water available at all times. Water deficiency will get a horse into serious trouble faster than any other dietary problem. The average water consumption of horses is approximately 10 to 15 gallons per day. Working horses or lactating mares may consume as much as 30 gallons or more within a 24-hour period. Horses competing in long-distance or endurance events should be allowed to drink as long as they are kept on the move. When the ride has been completed, they should be cooled-out before being allowed free access to water.
Bulk (Roughage) The preferred method of providing bulk is to offer pasture and/or hay on a free-choice basis 24 hours per day. If this isn't practical, figure on supplying a minimum of 1% - 2.5% equivalent of the horses correct body weight in good quality roughage per day. Feed as often as possible–two to three times per day is the minimum. Horses are naturally constant grazers that take in small amounts of forage on a regular and continuous basis. Know the fat and protein level of your roughage source so that you can properly balance the entire diet of your horse.
Energy Balance the protein content of your horses grain mix with the protein level and amount of the selected roughage to ensure the protein-to-calorie ratio is maintained within acceptable limits. Feed your horse grain only when needed to provide adequate levels of energy and/or protein. Energy status is evaluated by assessing the body condition of the horse. Horses should be maintained in a moderate body condition. Ribs should be covered with a layer of fat but easily felt. The top line should appear to be fairly flat when viewed from the side.
Fat and Protein The daily amount of fat, protein and amino acids required is determined by the horse's age, weight, growth rate, breed, health, metabolic rate, and environmental conditions. Balance the percent fat and protein level of the grain mix with the percent fat and protein level of your roughage. (Your county or state agriculture agency can test your hay to determine fat and protein content) Horses receiving alfalfa hay as bulk should be fed a grain with a lower percent protein content than horses fed grass hay due to the higher protein content of alfalfa. Young growing horses should not be fed excess amounts of protein, as this has been associated with certain types of developmental orthopedic disease. Minerals Don't haphazardly supplement individual minerals to a horse's diet. Used incorrectly, many minerals are capable of causing more harm than good. Ensure that your horses mineral and vitamin requirements are met and properly balanced by knowing your horse's mineral requirements and feeding it with a fortified product according to labeled directions.
Vitamins Mature, healthy horses can quite often meet their vitamin requirements via intestinal synthesis or metabolic synthesis by consuming feedstuffs that contain natural vitamins or their precursors. Young horses, performance horses, or horses under a greater than normal degree of stress due to disease, environment, or temperament may require vitamin supplements. If you provide vitamin supplements, remember that your horse will also require supplemental minerals. Often, you best solution is a micro-nutrient supplement that contains minerals and vitamins, not just one or the other.
Henneke Body Condition Scoring Chart
An Objective Method For Judging A Horse's Body Condition The Henneke System is an objective evaluation of a horse's body condition. Developed in 1983 by Don R. Henneke, Ph.D., of Tarleton State Texas University, it is based on both visual appraisal and palpable fat cover of the six major points of the horse that are most responsive to changes in body fat. Don R. Henneke, Ph.D., of Tarleton State Texas University, developed the Henneke Body Scoring Condition Chart in 1983. The original purpose of the system was to determine the fertility of thin mares. It is a scientific method of evaluating a horse's body condition regardless of breed, body type, sex or age. It is now widely used by law enforcement agencies as an objective method of scoring a horse's body condition in horse cruelty cases. The chart is accepted in a court of law. The chart covers six major parts of the horse; neck; withers, (where the neck ends and the back begins) the shoulder area; ribs, loins, and the tailhead area. The chart rates the horses on a scale of 1 to 9. A score of 1 is considered poor or emaciated with no body fat. A nine is extremely fat or obese. A horse that is rated a 1 on the Henneke Chart is often described as a walking skeleton and is in real danger of dying. Courts in the United States have upheld the seizure of such horses by law enforcement citing exigent circumstances, meaning there was a very strong possibility the horse would die unless immediate action was taken. Horse veterinarians consider a body score of between 4 and 7 as acceptable. A 5 is considered ideal. Observers are trained to visually inspect the horse and also to palpate each part of the horse with their hands to feel for body fat. The observer then assigns each area of the body the numerical score that corresponds with the horse's condition. When a horse has a long haircoat it is imperative that the person scoring the horse use their hands to feel the horse. The horse's long haircoat will hide the protrusion of bones, all except in the most extreme cases. The scores from each area are then totaled and divided by 6. The resulting number is the horse's rating on the Henneke Body Scoring Condition Chart. People working in this field will refer to the horse as being a "1 on the Henneke" or a "3 on the Henneke". The Henneke Chart is a standardized scoring system, whereas the terms, "skinny", "thin", "emaciated", or "fat" are all subjective terms that have different meanings to different people. Defense attorneys cross examining veterinarians and horse experts argue that the chart is not scientific. As one full time equine vet stated, "No it is not scientific, but it is as close as we are going to get." The Henneke Body Scoring Condition Chart is readily available. The chart is printed on the back of several manufacturer's of horse feed products and is available on numerous universities web sites. The chart has been used in several leading national horse magazines. Conformational differences between horses may make certain criteria within each score difficult to apply to every animal. In these instances, those areas influenced by conformation should be discounted, but not ignored when determining the condition score. Conformation also changes in pregnant mares as they approach parturition (birth). Since the weight of the concept us tends to pull the skin and musculature tighter over the back and ribs, emphasis is placed upon fat deposition behind the shoulder, around the tailhead and along the neck and withers in these cases. Description of the Condition Score System Score Description
1 - Poor: Emaciated. Prominent spinous processes, ribs, tailhead and hooks and pins. Noticeable bone structure on withers, shoulders and neck. No fatty tissues can be palpated. 2 - Very Thin: Emaciated. Slight fat covering over base of spinous processes. Transverse processes of lumbar vertebrae feel rounded. Prominent spinous processes, ribs, tailhead and hooks and pins. Withers, shoulders and neck structures faintly discernible. 3 - Thin: Fat built up about halfway on spinous processes, transverse processes cannot be felt. Slight fat cover over ribs. Spinous processes and ribs easily discernible. Tailhead prominent, but individual vertebrae cannot be visually identified. Hook bones appear rounded, but easily discernible. Pin bones not distinguishable. Withers, shoulders and neck accentuated. 4 -Moderately Thin: Negative crease along back. Faint outline of ribs discernible. Tailhead prominence depends on conformation, fat can be felt around it. Hook bones not discernible. Withers, shoulders and neck not obviously thin. 5 - Moderate: Back is level. Ribs cannot be visually distinguished, but can be easily felt. Fat around tailhead beginning to feel spongy. Withers appear rounded over spinous processes. Shoulders and neck blend smoothly into body. 6 - Moderate to Fleshy: May have slight crease down back. Fat over ribs feels spongy. Fat around tailhead feels soft. Fat beginning to be deposited along the sides of the withers, behind the shoulders and along the sides of the neck. 7 - Fleshy: May have crease down back. Individual ribs can be felt, but noticeable filling between ribs with fat. Fat around tailhead is soft. Fat deposits along withers, behind shoulders and along the neck. 8 - Fat: Crease down back. Difficult to palpate ribs. Fat around tailhead very soft. Area along withers filled with fat. Area behind shoulder filled in flush. Noticeable thickening of neck. Fat deposited along inner buttocks. 9- Extremely Fat: Obvious crease down back. Patchy fat appearing over ribs. Bulging fat around tailhead, along withers, behind shoulders and along neck. Fat along inner buttocks may rub together. Flank filled in flush.
Horse Weights
1. Measure the circumference (heart girth) of the animal (distance C). 2. Measure the length of body (distance A-B). 3. Take the values obtained in Steps 1 and 2 and apply the following formula to calculate body weight: Heart girth x heart girth x length divided by 300 + 50 lb. = weight.
Deworming
Adult Fast Deworming Program: January ------------------------- Oxibendazole March ------------------------- Pyrantel Pamoate May ------------------------- Oxibendazole July ------------------------- Ivermectin September ------------------------- Pyrantel Pamoate November ------------------------- Ivermectin
Adult Slow Schedule Deworming: On a slow schedule, the same dewormer is used every 2 months for 1 to 2 years. In theory, drug-resistant worms should emerge when the dewormer is not rotated. In practice, drug-resistant worms do not develop if ivermectin is used once or twice every 12 months in place of the selected dewormer. In facet, since resistance to ivermectin has never been demonstrated, ivermectin itself can be used as the selected drug in a slow schedule.
Foal Deworming Program: 2 months old ------------------------- Ivermectin 4 months old ------------------------- Pyrantel Pamoate 6 months old ------------------------- Oxibendazole 8 months old ------------------------- Ivermectin 10 months old ------------------------- Pyrantel Pamoate 12 months old ------------------------- Oxibendazole
Adult Seasonal Deworming Program: May ------------------------- Oxibendazole July ------------------------- Ivermectin December ------------------------- Ivermectin
Adult Continuous/Daily Deworming Program: In this program the horse is fed Pyrantel Tartrate (2.64 mg/kg) in alfalfa pellets on a daily basis to control the adult intestinal forms of large and small strongyles, ascarids, and pinworms. Pyrantel Tartrate does not kill tissue stages of these worms, but (when used on a daily basis) does kill larvae before they begin their tissue migration. This has a great advantage for elderly and stressed horses, and in circumstances in which other methods have failed to reduce egg counts and numbers of infective larvae. One other asset of daily deworming is that, as opposed to other programs, Pyrantel Tartrate does not have to be given to all horses on the premises to control worms in a single individual. This is advantageous of boarding facilities and for farms where horses come and go frequently. A potential drawback is the risk that feeding low levels of a dewormer will lead to the development of drug-resistant worms. However, this does not appear to be a problem with Pyrantel Tartrate, a dewormer to which no parasite has yet developed resistance. Pyrantel Tartrate does not kill bots. Accordingly, a boticide should be administered in midsummer and late fall.
Deworming Agents: Piperazine - Controls: Ascarids +++, Strongyles +++ Comments: Used with BZD's against resistant small strongyles. Organophosphates (Dichlorvos & Trichlorfon) - Controls: (Dichlorvos) Bots ++++, Ascarids +++, Strongyles ++, Pinworm +++ (Trichlorfon) Bots ++++, Ascarids ++++, Pinworm ++++ Comments: All organophosphates, do not use past mid-pregnancy, do not use with insecticides or tranquilizers. Narrow margin of safety! Carbamates (Pyrantel Pamoate & Pyrantel Tartrate) - Controls: (Pyrantel Pamoate) Habronema ++++, Ascarids ++++, Strongyles ++++, Tread ++++, Pinworm ++++, Tape ++ (Pyrantel Tartrate) Ascarids ++++, Strongyles ++++, Pinworm ++++ Comments: Safe and effective! Benzimidazoles (aka BZD's) (Thiabendazole, Cambendazole, Mebendazole, Febendazole, Oxfendazole, Oxibendazole, and Febantel (aka Pro-BZD)) - Controls: (Thiabendazole) Habronema +++, Ascarids ++, Strongyles ++++, Thread ++, Pinworm ++ (Cambendazole) Habronema ++++, Ascarids ++++, Strongyles ++++, Thread ++++, Pinworm ++++ (Mebendazole) Habronema ++, Ascarids ++++, Strongyles ++++, Thread ++, Pinworm ++++, Lungworms +++ (Febendazole) Habronema ++, Ascarids ++++, Strongyles ++++, Thread ++, Pinworm ++++ (Oxfendazole) Habronema ++++, Ascarids ++++, Strongyles ++++, Thread ++, Pinworm ++++ (Oxibendazole) Habronema ++++, Ascarids ++++, Strongyles ++++, Thread ++++, Pinworm ++++ (Febantel (aka Pro-BZD)) Habronema ++++, Ascarids ++++, Strongyles ++++, Thread +++, Pinworm ++++ Comments: All BZD's, do not use during first 3 months of pregnancy. Resistant small Strongyles are an emerging problem. Avermectins (Ivermectin) - Controls: Bots ++++, Habronema ++++, Ascarids ++++, Strongyles ++++, Thread ++++, Pinworm ++++, Lungworms ++++ Comments: Kills migrating larvae of most internal parasites. Broad spectrum. No resistance. Also effective against the filarial of Onchocerca, larvae of Habronema, and arterial larvae stages of Strongyles. Key Code: ++++ Excellent, +++ Good, ++ Fair Vaccinations
Basic Vaccines for Equine in the spring each year: RHINO/FLU
EAST/WEST/TETANUS
WEST NILE
STRANGLES
POTOMAC
RABIES Basic Vaccines for Equine in the fall/autumn each year: RHINO/FLU
Guidelines For The Vaccination of Horses by the AAEP http://www.aaep.org/vaccination_guidelines.htm Diagnostic Tools and Vital Signs: · Twitch: Sometimes you need to restrain a horse in order to do what's good for him. "No, I don't WANT you to scrub that wound clean, it HURTS!" · Thermometer: A horse's normal temperature is around 99 to 100.5F · Stethoscope: · Heartbeat: A horse's normal pulse is 30-40 beats per minute. · Respiration rate: A horse's normal respiration rate is 8-15 breaths per minute. The respiration rate should never be greater than the heart rate. · Gut sounds: A horse's gut should have lots of gurgly noises at least every 15 seconds. If you listen in the area behind the ribcage and don't hear anything, be very worried. · The horse's mouth: Gums and Capillary Refill Time · The horse's gums should be a pale pink. It's good to know about what color they ought to be, so check it a few times when your horse is calm. It should be pink, but not as pink as a person's. If the gums are very much more white, red, yellow, blue, or purplish than normal, it's an indicator that something is wrong. Often a horse who is feeling unwell will have very pale gums. · When you press a thumb briefly against your horse's gums, it should go white and then get pink again quickly. This is the "capillary refill time" (the time it takes the blood-carrying capillaries to refill after you press on them). The capillary refill time should not be more than 1 or 2 seconds. · Pinch Test (Dehydration): If you gently "pinch" your horse's neck, pulling up a little "tent" of skin, it should flatten immediately. If the skin goes down slowly the horse is slightly dehydrated if it stays "tented," the horse is very dehydrated. There are many reasons why a horse might stop drinking: · Water which is stale or dirty · Cold air temperature + cold water, or ice in the water · Horse is feeling unwell · Another horse is "guarding" the water · When traveling, the water tastes different from water at home When it's cold, I give my horses extra salt to encourage them to drink more. It's important to keep your water tubs clean, and empty/rinse them every few days/week. If you have a particularly bossy horse, you may need to provide several water tubs in turnout areas. It can be useful to check your horse's vital signs a few times when you and he are both calm. This will give you an idea of where his vital signs are normally, and also help you to work out how to read the vital signs. It can be difficult to figure out something new when you are worried. It's also helpful to note the horse's vitals when calling the vet: if you can give that information over the phone, the vet can offer you advice of what to do until he arrives, and also make sure that he brings the correct supplies. · Saline Solution: Water with a little salt in it. This is ideal for flushing (cleaning by pouring liquid over) a wound. · Iodine, Peroxide, Rubbing alcohol: I have all three, but iodine alone is usually fine. Any of these can be used to clean and disinfect a wound. If a veterinarian is coming, do NOT use one of these products; leave the wound as is. If you really need to clean it a little, flush it with saline solution. · Corona ointment: You usually want to use some kind of wound ointment, like we use antibiotic ointment on our own wounds. In fact, you can use antibiotic ointment itself on horses. There are a multitude of wound products available. · Wonder Dust: Wonder Dust stops bleeding and helps prevent the formation of proud flesh on a wound. · Swat: fly repelling ointment which is safe for use on wounds. Often flies are attracted to blood, and Swat helps keep the wound clean and pest-free. · Liniment: I use liniment when a horse has over-exerted himself or just been worked hard. Liniment can be useful if, say, a horse slips in pasture and you are worried about stressed muscles. · Non-stick gauze pads (many sizes): If you're wrapping a wound, you want to put one of these on first so the bandage doesn't get bloody, and so the forming scab is not pulled off when you next undo the bandage. · Quilts/Cotton Batting: When you put a pressure wrap over a wound, you need to buffer it with a layer of cloth first. · Polo/Standing Wraps: These are used over the buffering material to wrap the wound tightly. · Vetrap: Vetrap can also be used for pressure wraps, or simply to hold gauze in place to keep a wound clean. Vetrap is self-stick and very handy. · Duct tape: Putting duct tape over a bandage can help it withstand a horse's exuberance in turnout, and make the bandage more waterproof. · Soaking boot: If your horse has a wound in his hoof or on the coronet band, a soaking boot can be used to soak the hoof in Epsom salts or iodine, or to hold medication in, or to keep the wound clean in turnout. · Epsom salts: Good for soaking hoof injuries, like abscesses.
Illness Related Supplies: · Large syringe: Used for administering liquid medicines. · Gatorade powder: For dissolving/administering by syringe in case of dehydration. (This is what I use. You may choose to use an electrolyte powder sold for horses, or even a tube of electrolyte paste.) · Mylanta: about 30 cc of Mylanta helps relieve mild diarrhea.
· Disposable needles, small syringes: for administering medications intramuscularly. I do not recommend that a layperson (non-vet) inject a horse intravenously. · Banamine: Muscle relaxant/anti-inflammatory; used commonly for colicing horses (always call your vet for advice first). · Bute: Pain reliever/anti-inflammatory; use as recommended by vet. · Penicillin: Antibiotic; use as recommended by vet. · Epinephrine: For anaphylactic shock; call your vet immediately if you think you need to use this.
Caring for horses teeth:
Have your horses wolf-teeth pulled when they come in, generally around age 3 to 5 years old and have your horses teeth cleaned and floated every 1 to 2 years as needed.
Taking an animal's pulse
Place your hand in the area indicated below and count the pulses in a timed minute. • Cattle: Outside of the jaw, on the soft place immediately above the inner dewclaw or just above the hock joint. • Sheep: Inside of the thigh where the femoral artery comes close to the skin. • Goats: Inside of the thigh where the femoral artery comes close to the skin. • Swine: Inside of the thigh where the femoral artery comes close to the skin. • Horse: At the margin of the jaw where the artery winds around from the inner side, at the inside of the elbow, or under the tail.
How to monitor breathing
• Place your hand on the flank or observe the rise and fall of the flanks visually to count respirations in a timed minute. • Observe the breathing and condensation coming from the nostrils in the winter to count respirations in a timed minute. Animal Normal Pulse (rate/min.) Normal Respiration (rate/min.) Cattle 60 - 70 10 - 30 Sheep 70 - 80 12 - 20 Goats 70 - 80 12 - 20 Swine 60 - 80 8 - 13 Horses 32 - 44 8 - 16
Deviations in pulse rate
• Pulse rates will be higher in younger, smaller and more nervous animals. • Pulse rates will increase with exercise, excitement, digestion and high outside temperature. Deviations in respiration • Can be increased by recent exercise, excitement, hot weather or stuffy buildings. • Respiration is accelerated in pain and in feverish conditions.
Taking an animal's temperature
Step 1. Use an animal thermometer. Step 2. Tie a long string to the end of the thermometer. Step 3. Insert the thermometer full length into the rectum. Step 4. Remove in 2 to 3 minutes and read. Animal Normal Rectal Temperature Ranges (Degrees F) Cattle 100.4 - 102.9 Sheep 100.9 - 103.8 Goats 101.7 - 105.3 Swine 102.0 - 103.6 Horses 99.0 - 100.8
Deviation in body temperature
• A rise in body temperature can indicate an infectious disease. • Body temperature can also be affected by air temperature, prolonged exercise, excitement, age, feed, etc. • An animal's body temperature may be lower than usual during colder weather and at night.
Hoof, Mane, Tale, and Coat care:
You should have your horses hooves trimmed every 4 to 8 weeks, depending on the growth rate. Clean out your horses hooves and groom your horses mane, tail, and coat at least once a week.
Body bathing, Sheath and Utter cleaning:
You should give your horse a full body bath at least once a year when the weather is at least 60*F or warmer. Clean or have your geldings sheath cleaned at least every 6 months. Also, clean or have your mares utters cleaned at least every 6 months.
Toxic Plants
Trees: Red Maple (Acer rubrum), Eve's Necklace (Sophora affinis), Golden Chain (Laburnum anagyroides), Black Locust (Robinia pseudoacacia), Oak (Quercus species), Horse chestnut (Aesculus hippocastanum), Black Walnut (Juglans species), Chinaberry (Melia azedarach), Apple (Malus sylvestris, can be poisonous when eaten in large quantities, horses have been known to develop colic from gorging on fallen apples and cyanide is contained in the seeds, at least a cup of seeds can poison a human or animal), Wild Cherry (Prunus species), Cherry laurel (Prunus laurocerasus), Peach (Prunus persica)
Bushes, Shrubs, & Vines: Oleander (Nerium oleander), Boxwood (Buxus sempervirens), Burning Bush (Eunoymus atropurpureus), Kochia (Kochia scoparia), Saltbush (Atriplex patula), Mock Azalea (Menziesia ferruginous), Pacific Labrador Tea (Ledum columbianum), Mountain Laurel (Kalmia latifolia), Japanese Pieris (Pieris japonica), Rhododendron (Rhododendron maximum), Castor Bean (Ricinus communis), Mescal Bean (Sophora secundiflora), Mesquite (Prosopis glandulosa), Rosary Pea (Abrus precatorius), Singletary Pea (Lathyrus species), Yellow Jess amine (Gelsemium sempervirens), Privet (Ligustrum vulgare), Hydrangea (Hydrangea species), Ground Hemlock (Taxus Canadensis), s-39-Lantana (Lantana camara)
Ferns & Palms: Fern Palm (Cyca circinalis), Bracken Fern (Pteridium aquiline)
Weeds & Wildflowers: Atamasco Lily (Zephyranthes atamasco), Poison Hemlock (Conium maculatum), Water Hemlock (Cicuta maculata), Dogbane (Apocynum cannabinum), Milkweed (Asclepias species), Asters (Machaeranthera species), Broom weed (Gutierrezia microcephala), Cocklebur (Xanthium species), Groundsel (Senecio species), Jimmyweed (Haplopappus heterophyllus), Snakeroot (Eupatorium rugosum), Sneezeweed (Helenium species), Yellow Star Thistle (Centaurea solstitialis), Hound's Tongue (Cynoglossum officinale), Tarweed (Amsinckia intermedia), Prince's Plume (Stanleya pinnata), Rape (Brassica napus), Corn Cockle (Agrostemma githago), Leafy Spurge (Euphorbia esula), Alsike Clover (Trifolium hybridum, each leaf on these plants has 3 small tapered leaflets that branch from their stems and the flowers are creamy white to pink and bloom from may to October, the toxic principle is an unidentified phototoxin that will cause photosensitivity in horses), Crimson Clover (Trifolium incarnatum, leaves with three blunt-end leaflets with longish tapering flower heads that are dark red and bloom may to july, can cause colic and impaction and photosensitivity), Red Clover (Trifolium pratense, purple-red round headed flower on a hairy stem and leaves are divided into three oval leaflets showing pale chevrons on the surfaces, causes severe salivation or slobbering, bloating, stiffness, diarrhea, blindness, abortion, and founder), Sweet Clover (Melilotus species, has erect stems and leaves divided into 3 segments and spikes of white or yellow flowers, in itself is not poisonous but when cut for hay and allowed to become moldy various fungi metabolize coumarone in the plant to form the toxic principle dicumarol, symptoms include anemia, weakness, abnormal heartbeat, lameness, abortion, swelling due to bruising and hematoma formation, and hemorrhaging), Coffee weed (Cassia species), Locoweed (Astragalus species), Point Locoweed (Oxytropis species), Lupine (Lupinus species), Rattlebox (Crotalaria species), Hairy Vetch (Vicia villosa), Fitweed (Corydalis species), St. Johnswart (Hypericum perforatum), Beefsteak Plant (Perilla frutescens), Ground Ivy (Glechoma hederacea), Autumn Crocus (Colchicum autumnale), Death Camas (Zigadenus species), False Hellebore (Veratrum viride), Onions (Allium species), Sacahuista (Nolina texana), Mistletoe (Phoradendron villous), Cotton (Gossypium species), Squirrel Corn (Dicentra Canadensis), Pokeweed (Phytolacca Americana), Buckwheat (Fagopyrum esculent), Buttercup (Ranunculus species), Larkspur (Delphinium species), Marsh Marigold (Caltha palustris), Monkshood (Aconitum napellus), Foxglove (Digitalis purpurea), Indian Paintbrush (Castilleja species), Buffalo Bur (Solanum rostratum), Jimsonweed (Datura species), Bull Nettle (Solanum carolinense), Common Nightshade (Solanum americanum), Silverleaf Nightshade (Solanum elaeagnifolium), Tobacco (Nicotiana species), African Rue (Peganum harmala)
Grasses & Horsetails: Arrow grass (Triglochin maritime, short basal stem and clumps of grasslike leaves that are round with flattened side and flowers that are small and greenish produced on tall spikes and fruits composed of up to 6 capsules, has prussic acid on the leaves and has a high cyanide content and is potentially lethal at .5% of body weight, symptoms are excitement, rapid respiration, weakened pulse, tachycardia, salivation, voiding or urine and feces, staggering, collapse, bright red mucous membranes, convulsions, and death), Dallis Grass (Paspalum dilatatum, blades are flat coarse and pointed ends with little hairs growing at the base and dozens of tiny oval seeds grow up the stem, a parasitic fungus invades the flower heads and produces lysergic acid derivatives, ergot amine, and erogotoxine, symptoms are nervousness, trambling, staggering, abortion, convulsions, blood vessel restriction causting nerve damage in the tail, ears, and limbs, lameness and gangrene), Fescue (Festuca species, chewing fescue has round wiry leaves that grow in tufts and nematode galls are found in the seed and produce toxic symptoms with symptoms of muscular trembling, ataxia, staggering, falling, abortions and death, tall fescue is a coarse long flat ribbed dark green blade grass with many small flowers on spikes and contains alkaloids, perloline and halostachine and endophyte fungus is known to infect it, symptoms are in winter lameness, diarrhea, anorexia, rough hair coat and possible gangrene of the tail, hooves and ears, in summer elevated temperatures, little milk for young, stillbirths, abortions, prolonged gestations, retained placentas, and infertility)(There is a “safe tall fescue” or endophyte-free fescue that you can use to avoid this), Johnson Grass (Sorghum halepense, a coarse grass with large runners and topped with clusters of flowers and may contain cyanide, hydro cyanic acid or prussic acid, and sometimes toxic levels of nitrates, symptoms are excitement, rapid resparation, weakened pulse, tachycardia, alivation, voiding of urine and feces, staggering, collapse, bright red mucous membranes, convulsions, and death), Kleingrass (Panicum coloratum, has narrow blades and looks similar to coastal grass but with bunches of small seeds ant the tops, toxic principle is saponin, develops liver disease and photosencitization around the coronary band), Squirreltail Grass (Hordeum jubatum, wiry bristles and flowering spike with tiny teeth, the grass may pierce the skin on the animals ears, neck, face or mouth causing abscesses, ulcers, blindness and the inability to eat, it may cause colic and impaction), Yellow Bristle Grass (Setaria Lutescens, has no toxins but has little spikes and wiry bristles with tiny barbs that cause mechanical injury to oral tissues, will cause ulcers in the mouth and digestive tract), Horsetails (Equisetum arvense, windswept-looking whorls of think grasslike leaves at the ends of many tall green segmented hollow stems resembling a horses tail, contains toxic aconitic acid, palustrine, and thiaminase, sysmtoms are ill thrift, weakness, staggering, trembling, muscular rigidity, diarrhea, rapid pulse, and cold extremities)
Tips and Tricks:
Safety/Comfort *To prevent slips and falls in your wash area, install perforated rubber matting. Your horses will appreciate the comfort. *Warming Bits in the Winter: Lay the bit (complete with bridle) in a folded heating pad turned on High while you groom. Once you're done grooming, your bit will be nice and toasty. No more cold hands trying to warm an ice cold bit. *Use rubber mats in stalls to cut the cost of bedding and time mucking stalls. They pay for themselves in savings and time spent in the barn. *Use baby oil gel on those stubborn tangles on manes and tails. Regular baby oil runs off, but the gel holds and can be rubbed in and even left overnight on those bad tangles and can be brushed out a lot more easily the next day.
Cleaning/Odor Control *To keep flies down and the odor level normal, add lime to each wheelbarrow of manure you take to your pile. This works like a charm and settles it nicely. Also add composter starter to really activate it, and it makes a wonderful garden add-in. *Use vinegar to clean out hard-water deposits in your fly spray system. It's also great as an antifungal rinse for horses in Florida. *When cleaning water troughs/waterers, use white vinegar instead of some of the commercial gel/bleach cleansers. It is easy and fast to use, doesn't hurt your hands, and if you don't get all of it rinsed out it won't hurt your equine/cat/dog or any other animals. *A dump cart for your lawn tractor and pull it right to the front of the stall for cleaning. No more back-breaking wheelbarrows, and the lawn tractor allows you to dump the cleanings quite far from the barn in a very fast turn-around time. *Use a wet/dry shop vac on a regular basis to vacuum all the barn walls and rafters. This REALLY, REALLY keeps down dust and cobwebs, and helps prevent fires. *Try a power washer to clean the center cement aisle. It helps reduce dust too. *A leaf blower can be used instead of a broom to sweep out your aisleway. Use ear protection and wait until you put the horses out to do this. Your elbows and back will thank you! *To stop the strong smell of urine, after cleaning the stall, spray the wet spots with Lysol disinfectant spray. It leaves a nice clean smell and kills viruses, bacteria, mold and mildew. *Keep your water tanks clean by putting in some goldfish and or algae eater in them. *To eliminate a mess where you empty water pails, use a plastic crate outside or in a wash stall. When it's full of hay, it easily flips out and you can start again – saves lots of raking up hay pieces. *When cleaning your stalls bring a scrub brush and hose so you can scrub and rinse the water buckets right into your wheelbarrow. The old shavings absorb the water, and it saves time from hauling your buckets to the wash rack. *When cleaning stalls, sprinkle barn lime down before bedding the stall. Takes care of the urine smell and helps keep the stall dry. Miscellaneous *After cleaning leather tack, store in cotton bags. Old pillowcases work great or you can make your own. This really cuts down on mold and mildew problems. *To organize grooming and tack cleaning supplies, hoof dressing and fly sprays, use a clear pocket shoe holder. Hang it over a door or screw it to a wall. The pockets hold everything close by where you can get to it easily, and liquids won't tip over and spill. *When you need to cut the twine on a hay bale but can't find a knife anywhere, use another piece of twine. Simply thread the loose piece through the twine holding the bale, hold each end and "saw" until the twine breaks! *Use an old chest freezer for a grain bin. It's rodent-proof and insulated so sweet feed will not freeze. *When installing fencing, leave a 15" "walk through" big enough for a human, too small for an equine. You will save endless hours of gate opening and closing and you'll never have to wonder, "Oh, did I close that gate?" *When getting ready for a show, those haynets are always a chore. Use cross ties to hold the net open. They are much better behaved for filling then.
Blanket Sizes for Horses:
To measure accurately, you must take a side measurement from the center of your horse's chest, along it's side horizontally (parallel to the ground) to the center of it's tail. Blankets are always even sizes, so if your horse measures 71 inches, order a 72. 13 hands to 13.2....66 13.2 hands to 14....68 14 hands to 14.2....70 14.2 hands to 15....72 15 hands to 15.2....74 15.2 hands to 16....76 16 hands to 16.2....78 16.2 hands to 17....80 17 hands to 17.2....82 17.2 hands to 18....84 HOW MUCH WEIGHT CAN A HORSE CARRY? More than you think! But there is no quick answer. A bit like asking: how much weight can a human being carry? All we can do is use variables, along with that rarest of all qualities -- common sense! Here are the facts. Riding for pleasure, as we know it today, is less than 60 years old! Yet men have been riding horses for at least 2,000 years, almost exclusively as a way to get someplace so they could kill each other. The load of the horse increased, as his use increased -- and weapons of war got heavier. Major G. Tylden, writing in HORSES AND SADDLERY, notes that Royal Cavalry in 1775 required horses to carry some 316 lbs. Into battle, no less!. And the load never lightened. Shetland ponies used by the British in trench warfare in World War I weighed 600 lbs, yet carried 400 lbs!! Through modern times, as a rule of thumb, a horse in working condition, should be able to carry one third of its own weight. Providing!!! The saddle fits. The rider can rider. The horse has no back or leg problems. The grade is not too steep, the sun not too hot, etc., etc...People who weigh 250 lbs frequently ask if we can take 10 lbs out of the saddle! Of course we can -- but there is an easier place to get rid of 10 lbs!! If you weigh 260 and your saddle weighs 60, you might like to consider a mule, or a massive donkey!! Their ability to haul is legendary. Anatomically, and from an engineering standpoint, the horse is built more to pull than to carry. But by being reasonable, we can work around that.
This is a list of places you can contact for stolen/missing horse/tack/trailer or a sighting of them and equine rescue or reporting abuse/neglect:
Stolen Horse International (SHI/NetPosse)
Equine Rescues:
Animal Poison Control This is the only dedicated animal poison control hotline in the world
Other links and information:
Horse owners, enthusiasts, and professionals can now enroll in three online courses: Horse Selection and Evaluation,Horse Behavior and Welfare and Horse Nutrition. These self-paced courses allow learners to access materials and instruction whenever it is convenient for them. http://www.myhorseuniversity.com/
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